With further treatment, though, you can transform cabbage again. All it takes is a smart topping or sauce to promote it from bit player (albeit an interesting one) to dinnertime star.
That’s what this recipe from one of America’s Test Kitchen’s latest books does. By cutting a smallish head into wedges, keeping them intact by cutting through but not discarding the core, you create a gorgeous platform for a sauce of chickpeas and tomatoes. Curry powder, a little sugar, and a generous application of oil help the heat burnish these wedges to a gorgeous deep brown, accentuating the frilly lines of their leaves. The sauce, spiced with a little more curry powder, adds heft without hogging the spotlight.
When you spoon the sauce over the cabbage, you might think of the wedge salads that were hip (again) a few years back. But this is no mere salad. This is a