Another trip around the sun during Covid means another year of Zoom Seders. Whether virtual or in-person, a good Seder service can take a few hours with only ceremonial nibbles like matzo, haroseth, parsley and — get excited — a hard-boiled egg dipped in salt water. Hunger builds, but at least there’s wine.
The Seder meal that follows is culinarily a bit like Thanksgiving in that there are certain dishes, like matzo ball soup and gefilte fish, that are nonnegotiable. But there are other parts of the menu that can be tweaked, and what a good year to try something new and perhaps a bit more exciting than the usual.
Ground sumac, which is more widely available than ever, lends its pinkish tone and lemony tang to this roasted chicken. Citrus juices amplify the acidity in the assertive marinade, with dried apricots and green olives contributing their sweet