I HATE GOING to barbecues,” a vegetarian friend once confided as she poked at flavorless charred zucchini and bell peppers, an obvious afterthought by our host that evening. That’s why the grilled avocado made such an impression on me during a recent meal at Daniel Boulud’s Le Pavillon, recently opened in New York City. The soft green fruit possessed a perfect crisscross of brown grill marks. Adorned with einkorn and tart goji berries, the dish got a touch of spice from harissa and an additional hit of smoky flavor from charred kale. This clever combination would make a satisfying dish for most any diner, regardless of dietary habits.
Although some components of the dish demand the superior culinary savvy of Mr. Boulud, the multi-Michelin-starred chef confessed that the preparation of the centerpiece—that grilled avocado—is quite simple. “You need a ripe but firm avocado, split into four wedges,” he said. “Leave